Doors by type Cost Calculator

How this calculator works

Every figure in this calculator is the one published in the cost table on our doors by type guide. Pick the option that matches your job and the calculator returns that published range, adjusted for your region - it does not model anything the guide does not already say.

That is deliberate. A calculator whose rates drift from the page it sits under is worse than no calculator, because two numbers on the same site disagree.

What it cannot know: access, the condition of what is already there, and anything structural. Those are what separate three real quotes from each other.

What actually separates one garage door type from another

The calculator prices the option you pick, but the choice itself is worth a bit of thought. The four common types open in different ways, and that decides how much room you need in front and how well the garage holds its heat.

An up-and-over is the one most people picture. It tilts out and up on a single panel, so you need clear space while it swings. There are two versions, and the difference matters: a canopy door lets a third of the panel sit proud of the frame, while a retractable runs fully back on tracks inside the garage. The retractable is the easier of the two to automate, which is worth knowing if power doors are on your list.

A roller is the space-saver. It coils into a box above the opening, needs no swing-out room at all, and suits a short drive or a garage close to the pavement. A sectional works differently again – it lifts straight up in hinged panels and stores flat against the ceiling. Sectionals give you the best insulation of any type, so they earn their keep on an attached or heated garage.

Side-hinged doors open like a pair of gates, which is handy if you use the garage as a workshop and want to nip in without lifting the whole thing. Round-the-corner doors slide round the wall on a curved track – a niche choice, usually where headroom is tight and a roller box won’t fit.

How it’s built matters too. A single-skin steel door is the cheapest way in; an insulated double-skinned panel costs more but cuts draughts and noise. Timber looks the part on a period house but wants regular treatment, and GRP holds a woodgrain finish without the upkeep. Any of these comes as a single or a double, and a double roughly doubles the panel cost.

One last thing the price hinges on: are you swapping like-for-like into the existing frame, or building a new opening? A straight replacement reuses the aperture and sits at the bottom of the range. A new or altered frame – wider opening, fresh lintel, made-good brickwork – adds trades and pushes the job up.